The Documented History of Mainland, Orkney, Scotland
Today’s article shall discuss the complex & intriguing history of Mainland, Orkney, Scotland.
Mainland is an island located in the Orkney Islands Archipelago approximately 6 miles off the coast of Scotland. It is the largest island in the Orkney Archipelago, & the tenth largest island in the British Isles, at approximately 202 square miles. It holds the bulk of Orkney's population in its main settlement, Kirkwall, with a population of 10,020.
Known for its vast biodiversity of both terrestrial & marine life, peaceful coastal communities, & rolling green hills, Mainland is a picturesque island.
The Orkneys have a rich & complicated history, at one point being colonized by Norwegian Vikings. The history of Mainland goes back to the Mesolithic, with evidence of human populations on the island for at least 8,500 years. It seems the earliest settlers arrived around 6000 BC, having immigrated from Scotland proper.
In today’s article, we shall discuss the documented history of Mainland, the most destructive disasters to affect Mainland, & the economy of Mainland. With that being said, let us delve into this fascinating isle in the North Atlantic!
The Documented History of Mainland
Before Colonization (6000 BC to 750 AD)
As mentioned before, the history of the Orkneys stretches back approximately 8,500 years. Around 6000 BC, nomadic Mesolithic hunter-gatherers arrived on the island as the last glacial maximum came to a close, causing glaciers to rapidly retreat. Evidence of these early settlers can be seen in the form of flint tools, & shell middens, which are large piles of discarded shells from shellfish that were consumed. It is believed that they hunted local seabirds, as well as seals.
Around 3000 BC, civilization on Orkney transformed, & became more organized. Structured farming & herding communities grew, leaving behind some of the most important prehistoric settlements in the world. The builders of these magnificent structures aligned them with the solstices, lunar rise, changing seasons, sun, & moon.
Skara Brae was a Neolithic village constructed overlooking the Bay of Skaill approximately 5,000 years ago. The settlement consists of 8 homes clustered together, connected via passageways. Each home has artfully constructed beds, dressers, seats, storage spaces, & a central hearth.
The Standing Stones of Stenness are a series of massive stones all aligned in a circle. Though it is believed that there were 12 original stones, only 4 remain standing today. Fires may have been lit in the center of these stones. There is also evidence that animal sacrifices may have taken place. These stones were believed to be aligned with the sky, & to provide insight on the place of the sun & moon when viewed from various points throughout the year. Stones range from 15 to 19 feet (4.5 to 5.7 meters). The diameter of the circle that they make is approximately 100.06 feet (30.5 meters) in diameter.
The Ring of Brodgar is another stone circle, spanning a massive 426.5 feet (130 meters) in diameter. It is the third-largest stone circle in the UK. It is also believed to be astronomically aligned, with the sun setting perfectly between two stones during the summer solstice, & rising on the perfect opposite side during the winter solstice. Evidence suggests that animal & human sacrifice may have taken place during ceremonies.
Maeshoe is a Neolithic mass tomb made of stone. It is located inside a small grassy knoll. It is approximately 15 meters in diameter, with 5-meter high ceilings. Three small chambers extend from a central chamber, which is believed to be where people were interred. Strangely, when the site was first excavated in 1861, no human bones were discovered.
In these Neolithic communities, a rudimentary sewer system flushed by a stream existed beneath villages, an engineering marvel for its day.
By 2500 BC, metalworking had been brought from mainland Europe, kickstarting the Bronze Age. Though the usage of bronze & ceramics was popular in Britain, they seem to have been less common in Mainland, being used as status symbols rather than practical objects.
Gradually, bronze fell out of fashion, being replaced by iron, sparking the Iron Age. This era was marked by a temporary Roman occupation. Tall circular stone towers known as Brochs, now popular tourist attractions, were built during this era, spiralling some 13 meters high. Underneath these brochs, metalworking stations were constructed. Trade routes were vibrant, with pottery being imported from continental Europe.
During Roman occupation, burial customs shifted, with bones being interred in homes or lovingly buried.
During the Iron Age, a group of nomadic peoples known as the Picts, Latin for painted peoples, lived on the island. They were first encountered by Roman settlers in 297 AD, before disappearing from the historical record in 843 AD. Very little is known about them, though they seem to have exchanged culture, artistic motifs, & jewelry with the Romans. They are best remembered for their silver jewelry, intricately carved stones, & depictions of religion as well as the natural world.
After Colonization
Norse Period (750 AD to 1468 AD)
During the mid-700s, Norwegian Viking Raiders came to the island, & colonized it as a part of Norway. The island was officially incorporated into an earldom under the Norwegian Crown in the 800s, remaining as such until it was pledged to Scotland as a part of a dowry from King Christian I of Denmark & Norway for his daughter Margaret’s marriage to James III, King of Scots, in 1468. After this, it was incorporated into Scotland, & has remained as such ever since. It was officially pledged as collateral for the payment of 58,000 florins, & Margaret’s marriage to James III. Although the pair wed, the 58,000 florins were never paid, & the islands were absorbed into Scotland.
Scottish Period (1468 AD to Present)
Although the island was now a part of Scotland, many customs remained from the Norse Period. The primary language remained Norn (an extinct language derived from Old Norse spoken in the Orkneys) until the 1700s, place names remained distinctly Scandinavian, & the odal / udal landholding system remained in place.
In the early Scottish Period, 2 skirmishes occurred between Orcadian clans & Scottish rulers, respectively known as the Battle of Summerdale & the Siege of Saint Magnus Cathedral.
During the 1600s, 1700s, & 1800s, the island was an important stop on the trade routes for many sailors in the North Atlantic. Though many of these sailors were legitimate, many engaged in piracy, shifting stolen goods across the sea. One such gentleman was John Gow. John Gow was born in Wick, Scotland, in 1697. His family would move to Stromness during his childhood, after which he would run away to become a sailor. He rose to second mate aboard a ship named The George by 1724. When sailing aboard the Santa Cruz on November 3rd, 1724, he, along with a small group of sailors, mutinied, took power over the vessel, & renamed it Revenge. They raided coastal areas of Spain, Madeira, & Orkney, raiding the houses of the local Gentry. While raiding Carrick House on Eday, his ship ran aground, & he was captured by local law enforcement. He was later tried & executed by hanging in London.
Another such gentleman of ill will was Captain John Fullarton. According to author Ernest Marwick, John Fullarton was a privateer for the Royal Navy who came from Stromness. A privateer is similar to a pirate, except they are state-sponsored, & are permitted to rob enemy commercial ships at sea. He was allegedly very greedy, & through his acquisition of wealth, he was able to acquire an estate on Orkney for his family. While out raiding, he boarded Scottish merchant vessel The Isabella, & killed the commander, Captain Jones. He was promptly shot by Mary Jones, the wife of Captain Jones. After this, she was known as Mary Jones the Pirate Slayer.
As a result of this unsavoury activity, finding bootlegged alcohol was not very difficult on Mainland. In fact, up until 1860 you could purchase counterfeit gin over the counter from at least one bank in Kirkwall.
From the early to mid 1800s, the herring population off the coast of Orkney soared. As a result, many fishermen moved to the island, causing more infrastructure to be built on Mainland, & Stronsay.
During both World Wars, the island was critical in Britain’s defence of the North Atlantic as well as the North Sea, favoured for its calm waters & the fact that it was surrounded by other islands, making defence easier.
As World War I came to a close, British forces rounded up 74 German ships, & anchored them at Mainland. Upon leaving, the German commander ordered them to scuttle every ship rather than allow them to fall into the hands of the British. As they had not technically surrendered, no British officers were present. When the British forces returned, 52 German ships had sunk to the bottom of the bay. Many were later salvaged for scrap, though occasionally German artifacts still wash up on shore.
During WWII, on October 14th, 1939, the German submarine U-47 invaded Scapa Flow (a body of water between Mainland, Graemsay, Burray, South Ronaldsay, & Hoy), sinking the HMS Royal Oak under the cover of night. Over 830 seamen passed away as a result, many of whom were young cadets. The site is presently designated as a war grave, with a ceremony occurring each year to honour the lives lost.
As a result of this horrific tragedy, Prime Minister Winston Churchill ordered Italian Prisoners of War to construct 4 causeways linking the Southern Orkney Islands together.
The Most Destructive Disasters to Affect Mainland
Disaster No. 1: The Sinking of the HMS Hampshire
The HMS Hampshire was a 325-foot-long Devonshire Class armed cruiser first launched from Elswick on September 24th, 1906. Prior to her fatal June voyage, she had been used to patrol various parts of Japan, China, & Hong Kong.
On June 5th, 1916, she set sail at approximately 4:30 for Russia, carrying 749 passengers & crew. At approximately 8:30 PM, crew members heard an ear-shattering bang. They had hit a sea mine, one recently laid by German submarine SM U-75. The mine struck the port side, just below the engine room. Suddenly, she lost power as all electrical systems failed on board. Waves battered the ship, with water rushing in through the gaping hole that was left as a result of the explosion. Due to electrical failure, larger life ships could not be launched. A handful of small ships were successfully lowered, but many of them were immediately overturned by the massive Atlantic swells, while others were knocked against the side of the HMS Hampshire.
At Mainland, Orcadians were treated to the terrifying sight of the massive ship sinking, & survivors being tossed around by the ocean. Messages were sent to Stromness about this spectacle unfolding before them. Unfortunately, lifeboats were not sent out that evening, causing controversy later on. It is heavily debated if lifeboats would have been able to reach considering the conditions at sea.
At approximately 9:45 PM, the Flying Kestral, Northward, & Renzo were sent out to pick up survivors. Unfortunately, it was too little too late. No survivors were rescued by these ships.
Survivors had to battle the frigid black North Atlantic water all evening. Many survivors were slowly pushed towards the barren rocky cliffs of the Orkneys, either smashing against the side of these rocks, drowning, or succumbing to hypothermia.
The HMS Hampshire took just 20 minutes to sink. All told, there were only 12 survivors of the 735 crew-members & 14 passengers on board. That means that of everyone on board, approximately 98.4% were killed. These survivors all washed up ashore on rudimentary Carley floats, a kind of invertible life raft made of cork.
The men who died that night included the Right Honorable Earl Horatio Herbert Kitchener, Secretary of State for War at the time of his passing.
For days after the incident, bodies of men who had passed kept washing up on shore. Many were taken to Lyness to be given a proper burial.
Disaster No. 2: The Sinking of the HMS Royal Oak
The HMS Royal Oak was a Revenge-class battleship built & launched from Devonport in 1914. The ship had a crew of approximately 1,200 men. Prior to her watery demise, she was used in WWI. She was stationed in Scapa Flow during the early days of WWII, & was a part of the effort to find the German battleship Gneisenau.
On the evening of October 14th, 1939, she was stationed in Scapa Flow. The German submarine U-47snuck quietly into the area under the cover of night, & at 12:58 AM it fired several torpedoes at the HMS Royal Oak. Though most missed, one hit its target successfully, marking the beginning of the end for the HMS Royal Oak.
Surprisingly, this first attack was written off by many crew members. At 1:16 AM, 3 more torpedoes hit the side of the ship, causing the ship to begin listing towards its starboard side. Chaos soon erupted on deck, with fire spreading across the ship. Many were plunged into the bitingly cold & unforgiving waters of the North Atlantic. Of the 1,284 men stationed on board, 450 were rescued, & 834 were killed. The men who tragically died included 100 boy seamen, who were young men under the age of 18 undergoing naval training. That means that of everyone on board, approximately 64.95% were killed.
The wreck is presently a designated war grave. An annual commemoration of this horrific tragedy occurs every year at the wreck site.
Disaster No. 3: The Great Chicken Disaster of 1952
On January 15th, 1952, a fierce windstorm hit the Orkneys. Loose structures were ripped from the ground, trees were broken in half, & animal enclosures were broken. The losses amounted to approximately £512,213, 7 shillings, & 3 old pence. That is equivalent to approximately £12,262,293.75 in 2023, or $14,830,018.06. One of the most significant losses from this was the chickens kept in the Orkneys for their blossoming egg industry. Approximately 86,679 hens were lost, & 7,154 hen houses were destroyed. In addition to this, 529 agricultural buildings were fully or partially destroyed, 1,664 agricultural buildings were fully or partially unroofed, 234 domestic houses were fully or partially destroyed, & 1,247 domestic houses were unroofed.
The Economy of Orkney
The Orkney Islands have a vibrant economy. They are well known for their oil, gas, agriculture, aquaculture, fisheries, manufacturing, sustainable energy, & tourism industries.
Agriculture, fisheries, & aquaculture are all incredibly important to both the Orcadian economy & identity. A unique breed of sheep known for their seaweed-based diet is reared in North Ronaldsay, an island north of Mainland. Fisheries are estimated to support approximately 90 local businesses, or 5% of the local economy. Shellfish is one of the biggest seafood exports from Orkney.
Oil & gas are extremely important as well, with the Flotta Gas Terminal employing approximately 156 people. During its prime, the gas terminal processed an astounding 400,000 barrels of oil per year.
Tourism is gradually increasing as more people recognize the beauty of the islands. As of 2026, the Orkney Islands bring in over a hundred cruise ships annually, being one of the most popular cruise destinations in Scotland.
The unemployment rate is approximately 1.7%, while the employment rate is 88.3%.
The median annual salary in Kirkwall, Mainland, Orkney is £32,723 as of 2026, or $43,872.84. The average cost of living in Orkney is approximately $2,275.10 monthly, or $27,301.20 annually. Both of these figures include rent.
Directories / Credits
Citation No. 1: “The History of Orkney & Shetland”, Written by Ben Johnson, & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by Historic UK.
Citation No. 2: “A Beginner’s Guide To Orkney History”, Written by Magnus Dixon, & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by NorthLink Ferries.
Citation No. 3: “Orkney Islands History: From Stone Age to World Wars”, Written by Unknown, & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by Experience Orkney.
Citation No. 4: “Discover Over 5,000 Years of History on the Isle of Orkney, Scotland”, Written by Unknown & Published at an Unknown Date. Published Experience Scotland’s Wild.
Citation No. 5: “The Remote Rewards of Scotland’s Orkney Islands”, Written by Rick Steves, & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by Rick Steves Europe.
Citation No. 6: “The Viking Spirit of a Remote Scottish Archipelago”, Written by Karen Gardiner, & Published on July 7th, 2023. Published by the BBC.
Citation No. 7: “Heart of Neolithic Orkney”, Written by Unknown & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by UNESCO.
Citation No. 8: “Pirates & Privateers”, Written by Dusty, & Published on May 19th, 2011. Published by Orkney Archive.
Citation No. 9: “The Great Chicken Disaster of 1952”, Written by David, & Published on January 15th, 2024. Published by David at the Hall of Einar.
Citation No. 10: “Hugh O’Beirne and the sinking of the HMS Hampshire: a diplomat remembered”, Written by Dr. Richard Smith, & Published on June 6th, 2016. Published by history.blog.gov.uk.
Citation No. 11: “HMS Hampshire”, Written by Unknown, & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by Scottish Shipwrecks.
Citation No. 12: “The Sinking of the HMS Royal Oak”, Written by Unknown & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by the Royal Navy Museum.
Citation No. 13: “Economy”, Written by Unknown & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by orkney.com.
Citation No. 14: “Orkney Islands Economic Review”, Written by Mairi Spowage, Graeme Roy, Adam McGeoch, & Ben Cooper, & Published in August 2020. Published by the University of Strathclyde Fraser of Allander Institute.
Citation No. 15: “Orkney Economic Review 2023”, Written by Unknown & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by the Orkney Island Council.
Citation No. 16: “Orkney Islands - Local Statistics”, Written by Unknown & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by UKAreaStats.
Citation No. 17: “Non-Linked Isles: A Profile of the Isles”, Written by Unknown, & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by The Orkney Partnership.
Citation No. 18: “Cost of Living in Orkney Islands, United Kingdom in 2026”, Written by Unknown & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by Living Cost Index.
Citation No. 19: “Employment, unemployment and economic inactivity in Orkney Islands”, Written by Unknown, & Published at an Unknown Date. Published by the Office of National Statistics.
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